In the changing tide of culinary preference and environmental consciousness, smashed peas on toast is stepping into the spotlight in the UK, replacing its pricier, less sustainable predecessor — the avocado.
It’s no secret that the avocado has presided as the quintessential symbol of the millennial demographic over the last decade. However, its rule seems to be tapering off with a simpler, less costly contender moving in to claim its throne.
The culinary scene across the UK is gradually incorporating smashed peas on toast as an alternate to the perennially favourite avocado topping. This change signifies the increased awareness of restaurants about sustainability.
Avocados predominantly come from South and Central America, with Mexico being the chief contributor. These fruits command a considerable amount of water for their growth, about 9.5 billion litres daily in Mexico alone – equivalent to 3800 Olympic-sized swimming pools. Furthermore, the imported nature of these fruits and the potential involvement of aggressive cartels in the avocado trade have drawn criticism and concern for their toll on the environment.
Peas, in contrast, are an appropriate alternative in the UK where their cultivation is 90% self-sufficient. About 700 growers produce 160,000 tonnes of these small green seeds annually, as per the British Growers Association.
Moreover, peas score high on the taste scale, landing them on the priority list for chefs. Fallow, a London restaurant, serves a “No Avo” breakfast with toasted bread layered with English peas, smoked curds, walnuts, coriander, and dukkah spice, with the addition of eggs as per diner’s preference.
Chef patron and co-owner of Fallow, Will Murray, explains how peas enhance the dish with their distinctive, grassy, sweet and herbal dimension. He also emphasizes the importance of reducing air miles to the restaurant’s sustainability practice.
At Maene, another London restaurant, avocados have also been shunned in favour of smashed butter beans on sourdough toast. As chef Nick Gilkinson says, avocados contradict their focus on local, seasonal produce. The butter beans used are not only texturally akin to avocados but also rich in protein, hence a healthy choice just like avocados.
Amelia Christie-Miller, founder of Bold Bean Co, concurs with the view, citing the long-lasting popularity of avocado toast for its health benefits and ease of preparation. The change in toppings could spark new culinary trends. An interesting alternative could be a topping of olive tapenade with butter beans.
Bold Bean Co offers a novel variant in the form of a carlin pea, although regular garden peas are in no way inferior to them. They suggest that locally grown produce offers more value and reliability as compared to imported goods like avocados.
Nutrition-wise, peas are a powerhouse. Registered dietitian Dr Emily Leeming advances the fact that they are one of the best plant-sources of protein and rich in fibre, making them filling and energising. Moreover, the preservation of nutrients owing to their immediate freezing post-harvest, coupled with their cost-effectiveness, make them a valuable ingredient.
