With the grandeur of the Paris Olympics looming just over the horizon, Louis Vuitton, the globally renowned fashion giant, marked the occasion with a dazzling menswear showcase at UNESCO’s headquarters in Paris. A glamorous nod to the variances of human skin, the event teemed with supermodels strutting amidst a verdant landscape adorned with Vuitton’s signature Damier check. The vibrant models sashayed around an enormous globe, garbed in hues that mirrored the complete human complexion spectrum – an artful tapestry of diversity.
Pharrell Williams, the accomplished singer-songwriter now turned menswear designer, had a clear purpose for the monumental showcase. His artistic progression took on an organic, transcontinental journey through the lens of the upcoming Summer Olympics. Williams charted this voyage through shifting colors beginning from vigorous black, transitioning to hues of brown, touching upon subtle grays, and culminating in a pristine white.
Vuitton’s homage to humanity was reflected not just in the skin tone spectrum, but also in the intricate elements weaved into the collection. The color palette boasted verdant greens, magnificent blues, and elegant blacks integrated into the checked patterns, their inspiration stemming from Air Afrique’s luggage designs. This was an uncanny, yet beautiful tribute to an airline, iconic to diasporic creativity since the 1960s. Williams’ artistic collaboration with Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe infused an ethos of global unity into the display.
In sync with the who’s who of the United Nations, the designer thoughtfully digested various archetypes. Diplomats clad in deep and rich toned 70s-style tailoring featured alongside explorers dressed in stylish yet rugged outerwear. Dandies walked down the checkerboard runway, bedecked in coats and jackets ornamented with rhinestones and pearl embroidery.
As the skies shifted dramatically, ebullient with clouds and international flags pirouetting in the wind, the color-meets-culture array of this collection personified the stunning diversity of its models. This harmonious theme was masterfully ingrained in the fabric of the garments themselves. Python textures pixelated amidst depictions of world maps circled around Africa, the birthplace of humanity. Vuitton’s soccer ball leather designs added a touch of universal appeal, alluding to the world’s favorite pastime.
Exceptional detailing included carefully embedded enamel maps in buttons and stealthy LV logos embossed on luxurious materials. Vintage designs shimmered with oversized monogram patterns and weathered leather trims, adding a layer of nostalgic charm. This unparalleled synthesis of complex design elements alongside apparent simplicity formed a rich aesthetic tapestry, which was stunningly grafted from global heritage.
Despite the world’s current uncertainty and turmoil reflected by national flags fluttering around, Pharrell was hopeful. His aspiration for the showcase wasn’t grandiose – to serve as a beacon of unity – but rather the artful suggestion of peace.
Fashion sensation Nigo, showcased for Kenzo, used Henri Rousseau’s jungle paintings as an influence, artfully transplanting these vivid motifs, resulting in a spectacular blend of Eastern and Western tastes. The eccentric elements of this collection varied from a stuffed tiger adorning a model, to a sheath adorned with an Asian garden cityscape and the Eiffel tower. The spectrum of Western streetwear and high-end couture seen in this showcase raised an intriguing question – Does Nigo’s artistry lean more towards funk, or does it harbor an intrinsic finesse?
Pharrell was one of the first to applaud Nigo’s show, a poignant gesture signifying mutual support and unity amongst creative colleagues. This resonated deeply, especially as global luxury industries are hard-pressed to grapple with their own issues of representation and inclusiveness.
Highlights from other shows included Bianca Saunders’ boho thespian-inspired collection, complete with staple minimalist designs assimilated with cultural references. Saunders had a knack for blending tradition and modernity, evidenced in a diverse range of fabric textures and smart dresses.
Undercover’s designer Jun Takahashi masterfully coupled high fashion and streetwear. Drawing from his exceptional ability to pair familiar wardrobe elements with refreshing twists, his show was an engaging blend of age-old and modern aesthetics. Takahashi stayed committed to promoting inclusivity, the nonbinary being celebrated via a pleated printed skirt that spoke volumes for his fashion-forward thinking.
