On a sentimental voyage, Valentino revisited Les Beaux-Arts this past Sunday. This prestigious Parisian art institution holds a special place in the brand’s heart, being the alma mater of the fashion house’s venerable founder, Valentino Garavani. The trip brought a nostalgic tinge to the spectacle of the Spring/Summer 2024 Paris Fashion Week, that saw Sarah Burton’s finale show for Alexander McQueen, marking the end of an era.
Striding against a backdrop of art and history at Les Beaux-Arts, where Garavani honed his skills, Valentino presented a runway possessing a distinct modern flavor. Display platforms of stone, sand, and soil weren’t just embellishments, but stages for lithe contemporary dancers. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection exuded a robust spirit of femininity and creativity, from sporty minidresses cloaked in intricate white flora to flowing silk gowns. A pastel gray caped minidress, in particular, turned heads with its austere beauty. A disco mosaic dress of chainmail, revealing ample skin, sparkled in the limelight.
However, the dashing choreographed performance punctuating the show often stole the spotlight from the collection. Some critics saw this as indicative of the collection lacking sufficient novelty or repeating elements from past offerings. Even so, the brand’s elegant essence and pared-down approach to style suffused the spring collection beautifully.
At the Alexander McQueen corner, expectations hung heavy over Sarah Burton as she prepared to bid adieu. Filling the shoes of the prodigious Lee Alexander McQueen was always a herculean task, and the void left by his passing signaled the end of theatric masterpieces imbued with intense emotion. Blessed with a deft touch, Burton seamlessly wove McQueen’s bold spirit with her more subtle and feminine notes. Her swan song was a medley of dramatic bodices, blood-red laced spines, and inspiration drawn from Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz, reflecting an artistic fierceness tempered by nurture.
Every piece bore a story. The glossy leather corsets stood in stark contrast to the dreamy, shredded skirts. Other designs flirted with the concept of deconstruction, with trailing embroidery and trickling silver organza reminiscent of the early rebellious days of McQueen.
In the sea of appreciative attendees, including power-players like Cate Blanchett and Elle Fanning, Burton’s mettle shone through. As Naomi Campbell closed the show in a sculpted silver bugle bead dress, the attendees rose in an emotional standing ovation, honoring not just Burton’s final act but the beautiful continuation and augmenting of the legacy she inherited.
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