Decades-old remnants of rusted bolts, frayed safety ropes, and decomposing pegs, once left in the wake of bold climbers conquering Orkney’s Old Man of Hoy, are set to be taken away. Mountaineering Scotland, a prestigious climbing society, has indicated its intention to rid the iconic climb of these deteriorating vestiges, replacing them with safer, state-of-the-art climbing equipment.
Furthermore, the society has initiated a platform for vigorous dialogue amongst climbers to gain insights into their collective perspectives on rejuvenating this historic route. This planned endeavour promises to safeguard the delicate seashore ecosystem, including the breeding seabirds of the region, while simultaneously ensuring the safety of future climbers.
On their official website, Mountaineering Scotland merges fervor and concern while describing the sea stack, located off Orkney. According to the post, this “classic climb” has been relegated to a “dumping ground of worn-out, rotting gear, left scattered across various belay points down the years.” This haunted spectacle undermines the exhilaration of scaling the Old Man of Hoy, reducing it to “a risky game of abseil roulette after a successful summit.”
In addition to undermining the fundamental ethics of mountain climbing – to primarily “leave no trace” behind – Mountaineering Scotland emphasizes the escalating safety issues. The old, deteriorated bolts and ropes can potentially create lethal hazards to climbers, making it imperative to replace and upgrade the available equipment.
Expressing their support for this restorative proposal, RSPB Scotland – the site’s custodian – believes that removing the degraded ropes and other residues will bolster the protection of the indigenous birds of the area. “The removal of these potentially harmful items would mitigate potential risks of entanglement and degradation,” they suggested, additionally advocating a more organized climbing strategy to minimize disruption to the avifauna.
At an impressive 450 feet, the sea stack stands tall as one of the UK’s highest. Climbers have continuously been attracted to its formidable stature since it’s first successful ascent by Sir Chris Bonington, Tom Patey, and Rusty Bailie in 1966.
Mountaineering Scotland’s Access and Conservation Officer, Davie Black, remarks that, “although we are solidly behind this initiative of cleaning up the Old Man of Hoy that has accumulated over the years, we recognize that the usage of bolts for abseil descent has sparked debate within the climbing fraternity, hence the consultation for this high-profile project.” By inviting their opinions, Mountaineering Scotland aims to incorporate the views of the climbers who cherish this nationally significant sea stack.
