In a bustle of culinary innovation, the Ferguson Plarre Bakehouse in Melbourne has stirred a heated debate with their unorthodox technique for slicing custard squares. Steve Plarre, the bakery’s celebrated pastry artisan, has usurped tradition with the introduction of a lateral cut through the side of the notoriously gooey delight, rather than the traditional method of vertical cleaving through the top pastry layer.
Video footage capturing Plarre’s unconventional technique has captivated over 2.2 million viewers. His method signifies a clean, visually pleasing cut where dual layers of flaky pastry capture the custard filling, preventing any untidy spillage and keeping the structure intact.
This innovative revelation was sparked during Plarre’s visit to New Zealand bakeries. He witnessed diners struggle with the traditionally cut, custard-prone slice, and decided to demonstrate a more effective approach.
With a daily strut of a whopping 1000 to 2000 handmade vanilla slices sold, Plarre’s bakery has gained fame for these items as a popular treat throughout Australia. His unique slicing approach has raised some eyebrows and oohs of admiration, while some remain skeptical, questioning the necessity of dividing a single serving of the delicacy.
The ‘correct’ method for dicing the beloved custard slice still garners mixed opinions. Kheng Sam, from Wellington’s Artcraft Bakery, appreciates Plarre’s approach but opts for a custard powder mix to create more cohesive, less messy slices. Auckland baker Suzi Bath also concedes the difficulty in neatly slicing this dessert and shares her technique using a small paring knife and tin to maintain slice integrity.
Acknowledging that the perfect state of custard is still a hot topic among pastry chefs, Bath prefers a softer consistency that still retains some element of firmness. Meanwhile, Michael Kloeg of Clareville Bakery maintains the significance of high-quality pastry, suggesting a high butter to flour ratio for a tender, easy-to-slice base. Kloeg goes a step further by endorsing Plarre’s technique in the instance of sharing or a split dinner-dessert indulgence.
Yet custard slices are not a universal favourite among culinary circles. Sam Heeney, a pastry chef and lecturer at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Wellington, is not particularly enamoured by them but admits they share methods of preparation and serving with the French mille-feuille, a custard slice-like pastry.
Despite the buzz and banter around Australia’s dessert squares, the heart of the matter remains: a delicious custard slice requires a delicate yet firm custard, a tender, flaky pastry, and a clean, sharp knife used with careful precision. The debate over the ideal slicing technique or the ‘best’ custard slice recipe will likely continue, as people’s tastes and preferences vary greatly across borders and palates. But one fact remains – a well-made custard slice is a delight to behold and a joy to savour.
