Legendary Mountaineer Lou Whittaker Dies at 95, Leaving Behind Rich Legacy

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America has bid farewell to a legend. Lou Whittaker, a trailblazer amongst American mountaineers, took his last breath peacefully at home on Sunday at the age of 95. The man who helped lead ascents up the formidable faces of Mount Everest, Denali, and K2, as well as acting as a mentor to countless climbers during his 250 journeys to the apex of Washington state’s Mount Rainier, will forever be synonymous with the majestic grandeur of these peaks.

RMI Expeditions confirmed his passing, a company reflecting Whittaker’s own pioneering spirit, established in 1969. The company extolled on its website, “Mountains were the source of his health, the wellspring of his confidence, and the stage for his triumphs,” an exemplification of his immeasurable impact not only on mountaineering but also on breaking those seemingly insurmountable barriers down to make them accessible to the public. His efforts “made mountain guiding a true profession,” with many of the world’s premier mountaineers citing Lou’s tutelage as instrumental in their development.


Nurtured on the slopes, Lou and his twin brother Jim, both born and raised in Seattle, were introduced to mountain climbing in the 1940s as Boy Scouts. The brothers, as young as 16, scaled the 7,965-foot Mount Olympus, the highest peak in the Olympic Mountains west of Seattle. Their triumphant return home was aptly greeted by celebrations marking the end of World War II.

Apart from being mountaineers, the Whittaker brothers often participated in Mountain rescues. One of their most illustrious recue operations was the search for nine troops who had parachuted over Mount Rainier amid a storm- a search that saved all but one. RMI records reveal that dozens of lives were saved due to the bravery of Lou Whittaker, as he risked his life in numerous rescue missions.

In the early 1950s, Whittaker brothers lent their talents to their nation and served in the Army’s Mountain and Cold Weather command at Camp Hale, Colorado. There, they trained the 10th Mountain Division, an elite group of soldiers destined to battle in the unforgivingly volatile alpine conditions. They continued serving, this time the public, upon their return from service, aiding and guiding people during their mountainous ventures.

Lou Whittaker, known as much for his man of the mountains disposition as his entrepreneurial knack, decided to open a sporting goods store in Tacoma, thus choosing not to join his brother’s Everest expedition that later saw Jim becoming the first American to conquer Everest. However, Lou would recount in his book how he would sometimes stand in for his weary brother during celebratory parades and events.

Navigating the treacherous face of Mount Rainier, Lou Whittaker was instrumental in introducing thousands to the wonders and dangers of mountaineering. His company, Rainier Mountaineering Inc., now owned by his son, Peter, was, and remains, a pivotal part of many climber’s journeys, including the incredible Ed Viesturs who managed to summit the world’s 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen.

Cheating death time and again, Lou Whittaker survived avalanches, severe storms and witnessed the tragic loss of friends and clients during expeditions. However, his crowning moment came in 1984 when he led an expedition that completed the first successful American summit from Everest’s colder north side.

Whittaker’s worldview, suffused with a robust spirit, saw him stating in 1983 to The Associated Press, “Climbing isn’t fatalities… Climbing is the rewards you get from it, the enjoyment and health that you get from going out.”

Embodying the spirit of a mountaineer, Lou Whittaker always stressed that he didn’t want to die without knowing he had lived. His reply to a reporter’s query on why he climbed mountains was simple yet profound, “If you have to ask, you wouldn’t understand if I told you.”

Whittaker concluded his climbing quest in his late 70s, leaving behind a rich legacy of courage, perseverance, and love for the great outdoors. He is survived by his twin brother, Jim, his loving wife, Ingrid, sons, Peter and Win, three grandchildren, and two great-grandchildren. He was preceded in death by his daughter, Kim. Lou Whittaker lived for the mountains, but his story resounds far beyond their lofty peaks.

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Melinda Cochrane is a poet, teacher and fiction author. She is also the editor and publisher of The Inspired Heart, a collection of international writers. Melinda also runs a publishing company, Melinda Cochrane International books for aspiring writers, based out Montreal, Quebec. Her publication credits include: The art of poetic inquiry, (Backalong Books), a novella, Desperate Freedom, (Brian Wrixon Books Canada), and 2 collections of poetry; The Man Who Stole Father’s Boat, (Backalong Books), and She’s an Island Poet, Desperate Freedom was on the bestseller's list for one week, and The Man Who Stole Father’s Boat is one of hope and encouragement for all those living in the social welfare system. She’s been published in online magazines such as, (regular writer for) ‘Life as a Human’, and Shannon Grissom’s magazine.